| Driving Tips |
|
|
| Sunday, 02 July 2006 | |
|
Driving Tips Standing Starts Racing starts excepted, normal highway starts are quite tricky. You are trying to balance a very responsive engine, a clutch that seems to have only on-off options, and perhaps hold it on a very weak handbrake. Further, if you try to balance it on the clutch, as you were taught, you are abusing a very small unit and risk damaging it. Some tips: • Obviously, avoid unnecessary starts. Be aware of conditions ahead and act accordingly. If you can keep the car rolling, this will make the getaway much easier. • If you do have to stop, always use the Lo-ratio to pull away. the extra low gear it provides gives you greater flexibility and will improve your chances of getting away cleanly. • The factory recommendation is to try to use 2,500-3,500rpm, though this is easier said than done. • With first gear, Lo-ratio being so low, you can travel at very low speeds without feathering the clutch pedal. So once you have got some motion, it is possible to release the clutch completely and rely on the engine to pull you through. Most importantly, accept that you will get it wrong sometimes. I still do. Whether you stall it, hop down the road, or spin up the tyres, accept it, deal with it, and remember that soon you will be on an open stretch of road using the Rocket how Gordon wanted you to. Damper Settings Damper settings are the main tuning option on the chassis, and have a dramatic effect on how the car behaves on the road. So it is important to find and memorise the best road settings for your damper type. Unfortunately, we can’t give specific figures, as there are three different damper types on different chassis. Take advice (from the factory or previous owner) then experiment until you find a satisfactory setting. As a guide: • If you go too soft, you will experience a ‘flapping’ of the wheels as they are insufficiently controlled. This is hard to describe, but after hitting a small bump you will feel an extended “Ba-dum-dum-dum” as the wheel takes time to settle. • If you go too hard, you will feel a dramatic increase in nervousness, and not feel in control of the car. • When you get it just right, the car is direct, but fully in your control. The wheel reaction is a faster “Ba-dum” as the damper quickly pulls it back under control. All four dampers should use the same setting (e.g. eight clicks). The good news is the adjustment knob on each damper is exposed, and all four can be reset in a minute (less if, unlike me, you can remember which direction is stiff or soft!). Once you know your ideal settings, memorise it (number of clicks) and write it down. Just in case. Transaxle The Rocket is unique for having two gear sets. First the standard Yamaha gearbox, then a transaxle after the drive chain. This gives you three full ratio sets: Lo-ratio: maximum acceleration. Great for sprinting and most race tracks. Hi-ratio: For more relaxed driving Reverse: If you are stupid enough to want to try 160kmh backwards… Ratio selection is by a second gearstick under the dashboard. Hi-ratio effectively gives you two extra gears at the top, at the expense of losing one gear at the bottom. Standing Starts As first gear, Hi-ratio is effectively second gear, Lo-ratio, this makes it even more difficult to pull away cleanly in normal traffic. So if you are expecting to come to a standstill, such as for a junction or traffic lights, it is recommended that you drop down the Lo-ratio. Changing Transaxle Ratios Whilst there have been few reports of transaxle problems, it is fairly clear that it will repay you the care you give it. Look after it, and it will work beautifully. With the wide overlap between Hi- and Lo-ratios you should rely on the gearbox for most changes. Transferring between Hi- and Lo-ratio is only really necessary if: • You are settling in for a long high speed run (e.g. joining a motorway) • You are going to have to come to a standstill and pull away (e.g. a road junction) So when you do need to change it is recommended that you use the clutch, make a fast, direct movement, and do it under minimal load: • Change up only when already in top gear and when you have reached your preferred speed (top gear in Lo-ratio is good for at least 140mph (220kmh)) • Change down when you are already stationary, or rolling up to the stopping point. The ratio engagement can occasionally baulk (if stationary) or find a false neutral, so it is advisable to check that power is reaching the wheels by gently applying some throttle, rather than have the engine bounce off the rev limiter. Wet Weather Driving Not recommended, but sooner or later we all have to do it. With so little weight on so much rubber, aquaplaning on standing water is a risk, especially if you use the Avon ACB10 track tyre. So slow and steady is required. The screen offers more protection than you might expect, but head & face protection (a race helmet or flying helmet & goggles) are strongly recommended – rain stings at speed. It also pays to be prepared with some decent wet weather clothing. See Useful Equipment Trackback(0)
Comments (0)
 Write comment
|
TrackBack URI for this entry
Subscribe to this comment's feed
| < Prev | Next > |
|---|